Sunday, July 9, 2017

Folding quiers - plier les cahiers d'imprimérie (ou de photocopies)

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24
25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32
33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

D'abord la première ligne.  First the first line.
1 and 8 are extremes, and 4 and 5 are mid pages.  1 et 8 sont les pages extrêmes et 4 et 5 les pages moyennes.
Les autres pages en italiques sont les pages du côté verso de l'impression.  The other pages, in italics, are the pages of the verso side on the print out.
These should be folded to each other so 2 touches 3 and 6 touches 7.  Celles-ci doivent être pliées entre elles pour que 2 touche 3 et pour que 6 touche 7.
Après le premier pli, donc, on a les pages extrêmes d'un côté et les pages moyennes de l'autre.  After the first fold, then, you have extreme pages on one side and mid pages on the other one.
The second fold makes the two mid pages touch and makes the extremes the two outer pages of the whole folded quier.  Le deuxième pli fait que les pages moyennes se touchent et fait des deux pages extrêmes les pages ... extrêmes ... du cahier en entier.
Et les lignes suivantes répètes le processus pour les cahiers à suivre, jusqu'à page 40. Les pages 41 - 48, 81 - 88 et 121 à 128 reprennent le schéma avec chaque fois 40 de plus.  And the following lines repeat the process for following quiers, up to page 40. The pages 41 to 48, 81 to 88 and 121 to 128 reuse the pattern with each time forty more.

Hans Georg Lundahl
5th Sunday after Pentecost
5ème Dimanche après Pentécôte

Tuesday, June 13, 2017

Comment expliquer KROPPKAKOR à un francophone?

D'abord, la prononciation:

Crope - cââh - cour. Surtout pas "crope-cââh-COUR", au contraire "CROPE-CÂÂH-cour".

Ou si vous connaissez un Lithuanien, "cepeliniai" se prononce tsé-pé-LIGNE-èï ou à la limite tsé-pé-LINE-èï.

Ensuite, comment les préparer:

Pâte de pomme de terre

On prend autant qu'on veut de pomme de terre cuites à l'eau (ou à la vapeur), épluchées, refroidies. On les passe au moulin des légumes ou par la fourchette, en purée pas trop fine.

On y ajoute du sel, du poivre, de la muscade, et encore oeuf et farine de blé ou amidon de marante. On pétrine, en visant une pâte à peu près la consistance de massepain. Une fois obtenue, on la met en frigo pour refroidir.

Préparation approchée

On fait un bain d'eau salée en grande casserole. Elle doit pouvoir bouillir avec plusieurs boules de la pâte sans refroidir.

On prépare aussi une farcie, de lardons et des oignons, au sel et poivre et frits en poêle.

On met des parties de la pâte sur un plat, elle doivent avoir la forme un peu aplatie de la main. On y met de la farcie. On les referme autour de la farcie.

Et une fois que l'eau bout violemment, on y met des boules de pâte avec farcie, avec une louche.

Si vous avez bien dosé les oeufs et la farine, la pâte ne va pas trop décomposer dans le bain d'eau bouillante. Et elles vont:

1) flotter un peu
2) couler
3) et reflotter.

Quand elles reflottent, c'est le moment de les enlever du bain et de les servir, avec du beurre qu'on laisse fondre. Bon appetit!/HGL

Wednesday, June 7, 2017

An Ahnentafel Kit

<ul><li> Self

<ul><li> 1)


<li> Parents

<ul><li> 2)
<li> 3)


<li> Siblings

<ul> <li> 2/3:i
<li> 2/3:ij
<li> 2/3:iij
<li> 2/3:iu
<li> 2/3:u
<li> 2/3:uj
<li> 2/3:uij
<li> 2/3:uiij
<li> 2/3:ix
<li> 2/3:x

<li> Grandparents

<ul><li> 4)
<li> 5)

<li> 6)
<li> 7)


<li> Uncles and aunts

<li> 4/5:i
<li> 4/5:ij
<li> 4/5:iij
<li> 4/5:iu
<li> 4/5:u
<li> 4/5:uj
<li> 4/5:uij
<li> 4/5:uiij
<li> 4/5:ix
<li> 4/5:x

<li> 6/7:i
<li> 6/7:ij
<li> 6/7:iij
<li> 6/7:iu
<li> 6/7:u
<li> 6/7:uj
<li> 6/7:uij
<li> 6/7:uiij
<li> 6/7:ix
<li> 6/7:x </ul>

<li> Greatgrandparents

<ul> <li> 8)
<li> 9)

<li> 10)
<li> 11)

<li> 12)
<li> 13)

<li> 14)
<li> 15)


<li> Granduncles and grandaunts


<li> 8/9:i
<li> 8/9:ij
<li> 8/9:iij
<li> 8/9:iu
<li> 8/9:u
<li> 8/9:uj
<li> 8/9:uij
<li> 8/9:uiij
<li> 8/9:ix
<li> 8/9:x

<li> 10/11:i
<li> 10/11:ij
<li> 10/11:iij
<li> 10/11:iu
<li> 10/11:u
<li> 10/11:uj
<li> 10/11:uij
<li> 10/11:uiij
<li> 10/11:ix
<li> 10/11:x

<li> 12/13:i
<li> 12/13:ij
<li> 12/13:iij
<li> 12/13:iu
<li> 12/13:u
<li> 12/13:uj
<li> 12/13:uij
<li> 12/13:uiij
<li> 12/13:ix
<li> 12/13:x

<li> 14/15:i
<li> 14/15:ij
<li> 14/15:iij
<li> 14/15:iu
<li> 14/15:u
<li> 14/15:uj
<li> 14/15:uij
<li> 14/15:uiij
<li> 14/15:ix
<li> 14/15:x

<li> Greatgreatgrandparents

<ul><li> 16)
<li> 17)

<li> 18)
<li> 19)

<li> 20)
<li> 21)

<li> 22)
<li> 23)

<li> 24)
<li> 25)

<li> 26)
<li> 27)

<li> 28)
<li> 29)

<li> 30)
<li> 31)

<li> Greatgranduncles and greatgrandaunts

<li> 16/17:i
<li> 16/17:ij
<li> 16/17:iij
<li> 16/17:iu
<li> 16/17:u
<li> 16/17:uj
<li> 16/17:uij
<li> 16/17:uiij
<li> 16/17:ix
<li> 16/17:x

<li> 18/19:i
<li> 18/19:ij
<li> 18/19:iij
<li> 18/19:iu
<li> 18/19:u
<li> 18/19:uj
<li> 18/19:uij
<li> 18/19:uiij
<li> 18/19:ix
<li> 18/19:x

<li> 20/21:i
<li> 20/21:ij
<li> 20/21:iij
<li> 20/21:iu
<li> 20/21:u
<li> 20/21:uj
<li> 20/21:uij
<li> 20/21:uiij
<li> 20/21:ix
<li> 20/21:x

<li> 22/23:i
<li> 22/23:ij
<li> 22/23:iij
<li> 22/23:iu
<li> 22/23:u
<li> 22/23:uj
<li> 22/23:uij
<li> 22/23:uiij
<li> 22/23:ix
<li> 22/23:x

<li> 24/25:i
<li> 24/25:ij
<li> 24/25:iij
<li> 24/25:iu
<li> 24/25:u
<li> 24/25:uj
<li> 24/25:uij
<li> 24/25:uiij
<li> 24/25:ix
<li> 24/25:x

<li> 26/27:i
<li> 26/27:ij
<li> 26/27:iij
<li> 26/27:iu
<li> 26/27:u
<li> 26/27:uj
<li> 26/27:uij
<li> 26/27:uiij
<li> 26/27:ix
<li> 26/27:x

<li> 28/29:i
<li> 28/29:ij
<li> 28/29:iij
<li> 28/29:iu
<li> 28/29:u
<li> 28/29:uj
<li> 28/29:uij
<li> 28/29:uiij
<li> 28/29:ix
<li> 28/29:x

<li> 30/31:i
<li> 30/31:ij
<li> 30/31:iij
<li> 30/31:iu
<li> 30/31:u
<li> 30/31:uj
<li> 30/31:uij
<li> 30/31:uiij
<li> 30/31:ix
<li> 30/31:x

Thursday, April 27, 2017

Are Moveable Walls Good Church Architecture?

I don't think so. Not generally speaking. While an iconostasis is technically movable, it is usually not moved, as long as the Church remains in function.

I was however not always Catholic with some penchant for Eastern Rite, I was at one time learning to pray and read the Bible in Churches - if one may call them so - which have moveable walls.

It didn't hurt, because these walls, when there did not carry any icons, and when moved, did not remove icons with them. These Churches are my own most vivid experience of what usually is conference centres.

Someone who presumably agrees with me on Church Architecture, is producing these assets for conference buildings, and if you live in or near Athens, I suppose he may be the closest by to be doing so.

Here is a blog post which would indicate to professionals (I presume, not being one myself) that he knows what he is talking about:

Κινητοί Τοίχοι - Movable Walls : Η Ηχομόνωση των Κινητών Τοίχων και σχετικές έννοιες*
Friday, September 23, 2016

I do him this little favour because, perhaps, some people may expect me to do some favour to some business man, but also, more, this thing about movable walls brought back good memories. It was not under torture or threats of beatings I became a Christian, but playing and reading along in well aired buildings with movable walls, some of which also served to provide ma and me with a separate sleeping room./HGL

PS, higher up on the blog, you will see some decorative examples of this concept. Restaurants can use it for advantage when accomodating companies of guests of diverse sizes, one evening a smaller one, with other guests on other side of a wall, one evening a bigger one, with walls removed./HGL

* All the text except the title is also available in English on the post.

Friday, October 28, 2016

Two Ways with Hardboiled Eggs (Neither Mine, but Forgot Title of One)

Here is a reference and link to the second way:

Huffington Post : Instead Of Boiling Your Eggs, You Should Try Steaming Them
There’s a better way.
Julie R. Thomson | 08/23/2016 06:01 am ET | Updated Aug 23, 2016

I'll give her the word about stating the problem:

As simple a food as they are, hard-boiled eggs are in fact a little tricky to get right. If you cook them too long, they’ll get that unappetizing green ring around the yolk. Start with them too fresh and they’ll be impossible to peel. If you’re looking to make a quick egg salad for lunch, this can put a real snag in your plans.

There is a cookbook I once read, BUT of which I forgot the title, and it deals with applying science to cookery, if that can help YOU find it. It may not be on Amazon, I found it on a sale of old books, either a second hand shop or a market stand.

It has another solution.

Put raw eggs in casserole. Cover them with water. Take them out, make the water boil, take away the heat and add eggs into it while the water continues simpering. If you use salt in water, eggwhite which comes out through cracks will solidify before draining the egg of the white./HGL

Monday, September 5, 2016

From Blog Posts or Notebook to Book : Part II, from reproducible originals to books you can turn the pages of

From Blog Posts or Notebook to Book : Part I, up to reproducible originals · Part II, from reproducible originals to books you can turn the pages of

A Copying.

For each fold or 8 pages ...

... Title page to 8, 9 to 16, 17 to 24 and so on ...


... Title page to uiij, 1 to 8, 9 to 16, 17 to 24 and so on ...

use the originals produced in part I for recto verso copying, most usually in A4 (doing recto verso to A3 might be irksome or impossible).

Do it in as many copies as you like.

For the cover, make as many copies of the one sided original where the title page is (or of other page including title page and back cover blurb?).

For instance, I had a booklet with long preface up to p. uiij and pages of regular text up to p. 56. That is eight recto verso for the folds, 16 copies worth, since each recto verso counts as two copies, and an extra copy (one sided) for the cover = each example is worth 17 copies.

B Folding and first gluing of cover.

All folds or quiers or two sided printing sheets are folded like this:

first fold is vertical along a horizontal line, second fold is horizontal along a vertical line;
the two pages that are side by side (iu & u, 4 & 5, 12 & 13 and so on) are outside of first fold and inside of second;
the two pages that are extreme (uiij or 8 and title page, 16 & 9 and so on) are other outside of first fold, outsides of second fold.

Cover page copy can be divided along a vertical line, this is the method I am using right now and will first describe.

One piece of it will have the title page and a page head to head with it.

Other piece will have either other two pages of recto for first quier or a blurb and a page head to head with it... fold both pieces so that title page, possibly blurb, fold down "on front". Unfold, so title page and possibly blurb come on top. Glue other pages of front and back covers onto the first and last quiers, adding "two pages extra tall" before first and after last.

Let the glue dry.

Note that each printed sheet as folded is hereafter known as one quier. It is the same word as French "cahier".

C For sewing, you need holes.

More specifically, you need the holes in all quiers and lower part of cover sheets to match up.

Fold a piece of thick paper or cardboard straight. Its double rim on one side at least should be straight enough to match up with sides of a folded quier. Length of fold should be a bit less than half length of second fold of each quier.

Draw a line on it, 3 mm or "one line" from the fold. Use needle to push four holes in it. Fairly equidistanced. Outer two should be about 1 cm or "four lines" from the limit of the paper or cardboard.

Now put each quier with its longer fold into the folded cardboard, matching up first shorter folds, then opposite side of quier with four leafs with the straight rim of the cardboard, and on each side punch four holes with needle.

When you punch the eight holes in first and last quiers, title page and "blurb page" (whether actually holding a blurb or not) should be folded up, away from the page which is glued to outer page of quier. If you start punching holes just after above gluing of cover, punch these two quiers last, so glue can dry at least some. The "show pages" (title and blurb) must be kept folded up and away, off the sewing all through next moment.

D Now, sewing the quiers.

When all quiers have their holes punched, thread a needle same size or thinner than the one you used for punching. Use a fairly long thread, you will still probably have to thread it again.

Divide the quiers (in the right order, cover's title page and blurb page folded up and away) into two and start sewing from the middle of the book.

Start at either lowest set of holes and sew upward, or highest and sew down or from two midmost and sew out both directions, but decide which you do before starting to sew.

Glue some on the paper near to your "first hole", glue the double thread end onto it, let it rest. Then, when glue is solid, sew through first hole ofall quiers from mid front to front, just pulling thread through the row of holes.

Now make sure all the double thread is pulled through.

Turn the quiers together so you see first hole from front, where thread comes out. Turn needle behind first quier from front, push it through the first quier's first hole again. If you did right, you now have the double thread first going through front row of first holes, then looping into front most first hole and out on front again. Draw out the thread so loop is tightened.

Next loop is over fold of frontmost quier and fold of the one inside it. I will label it quier II. Needle should now go into first hole of quier II and up between quiers II and I. See below how.

Next loop is over folds of quiers II and III, needle through first hole in quier III, up between quiers III and II, and so on, all the way to back of book. In the first row of holes, this means that after middle you will be adding quier after quier by making loop after loop. Continue: until you have pulled up needle between last quier and second last quier.

Last loop after that, over fold of only last quier, needle through first hole in it and through all first holes in a row back into the middle where you started.

Most of the time, you will be doing this with quiers already attached to each other. If you sew from front, as here described, pull out the quier around which you make loop both from what is behind it and what is in front of it, gently, not too far, you don't have all that much room. Put needle point behind it, push needle point down front (with needle eye slightly up behind it) through the hole. Then paddle the needle eye down, slightly, so as to get needle point up, after the hole (before the hole, as you watch it) and now push needle up from below. Avoid making scratches.

In the very first row, after middle, you can actually sew from behind and have each new quier hindmost, and that is easier - but from second row on, you don't have that luxury.

Now get needle under thread where it starts out from glue attachment, then up to second hole. Now repeat all of above but applied to second hole. Except, this time you don't need to add quiers, they are already there.

Whenever, from second hole on, the loops pass the middle, make sure the loop around quier just after middle when (double) thread goes up in middle, also loops where the thread started out from middle. And whenever you come back to middle again, pass thread through those two, before going on to next set of holes.

If (as it will, at least unless you start with the two rows of holes closest to middle), thread starts becoming short, thread another needle, make a flat knot around "thread ends" of one double thread and "needle end" of the first one. If you only have one needle, you may be better off gluing the ends to the paper and let it dry before going on to sew. Either way, you cut needle free from first double thread before going on.

When all sets of holes above or below first hole to the end of the book are sewn, attach some glue, cut strings off from needle and curl them into the glue. Let dry.

E This Back is not Blurb Page, but the back you see in a bookshelf

If you have spoiled copies, you have some scrap paper. Cut or fold-and-rip the A4 into four A6. If you have relatively few quiers (for 8, it is certain, for ten perhaps at least probable), now cut or fold and rip the A6 along its longer axis. Then fold that paper again, still along the longer axis. Glue the inside of the fold, fold it together and press around glue. Let dry.

Now punch holes, exactly as you did with the quiers.

Now glue one side of the back with its holes, fold that side closer to the quiers and folds, and attach sewing through the holes you made for the binding as such as well as the holes for this back. Let the thread go back and forth between front and back (as in blur side, this time) making a prolonged figure 8 with appropriately many loops through all the holes.

First hole, attaching the back is tricky. From second hole on, it gets easier, but you will have to pull the thread some times over, since the back will be trying to bend outward into flat, away from the quiers. Don't give up. When you are done, you should have by the newer sewing have attached to the first and last quier the glued back. Now let dry.

F Finishing front and back covers (and this back is the blurb page, if you have a blurb)

Glue over the leaf that is now glued in between first quier and bookshelf back in front, fold the title page over it, push all over so the glue comes even underneath.

Do the same with the blurb side.

Now lay it all under a press, and let it dry.

G Tips if you want a real blurb and a printed bookshelf back:

Do this before making the books - or after you tested on first example that the width of the quiers is right for the size of back I propose.

Make a special single page (recto only) print, not of the recto of title page quier, but of a sheet having title page and whatever you want as blurb page printed in the right quarters of it.

As to bookshelf back, the size I have here discussed is the quarter width of an A6 with all its length, printed, other quarter width (to make it thick), not printed. This printed/not printed half width is repeated other half width of the A6 and twice again on the A6 beside and that is repeated on the two A6 parts above.

First take or blank print an A3. Fold its width in four. Then write appropriate text (like author and title) as close to middle of every second of the four strips. Make text fairly large, it will be diminished. Now lay this on the A3 field of the copying machine, make two smaller prints in A4.

Lay these two side by side on the A3 field, copy to two smaller A4.

These on the A3 field, diminished to a single A4 will give you eight useable backs on the 8 "half width A6 pages" it comprises. Bigger sizes of same text can be used for decoration outside books, or as scrap paper.

Hans Georg Lundahl
Nanterre UL
St Lawrence Giustiniani of Venice

PS, I had nearly forgotten, but when the last gluing is dried, there is one step more : you need to cut the top folds, the first folds. Not the back folds, second folds, which are protected by the sewing and the bookshelf back, but the top folds. It's no great fun (after novelty has passed) for most people reading only pages 1, 4, 5, 8, 9, 12, 13, 16 and missing 2, 3, 6, 7, 10, 11, 14, 15./HGL

Monday, August 29, 2016

From Blog Posts or Notebook to Book : Part I, up to reproducible originals

From Blog Posts or Notebook to Book : Part I, up to reproducible originals · Part II, from reproducible originals to books you can turn the pages of

  • A) For a notebook :

    each pair of facing pages is numbered as two pages going later side by side on reproducible original

    8 - 1 : 16 - 09 : 24 - 17 : 32 - 25 : 40 - 33
    2 - 7 : 10 - 15 : 18 - 23 : 26 - 31 : 34 - 39
    6 - 3 : 14 - 11 : 22 - 19 : 30 - 27 : 38 - 35
    4 - 5 : 12 - 13 : 20 - 21 : 28 - 29 : 36 - 37

    48 - 41 : etc : 88 - 81
    42 - 47 : etc : 82 - 87
    46 - 43 : etc : 86 - 83
    44 - 45 : etc : 84 - 85 : etc

    and pages are written in the order they are numbered in. First two facing pages, you write on p. 1, to the right, then turn the page, write p. 2 on the left, then turn the page, write p. 3 on the right, then turn the page, write pages 4 and 5 in order, turn the page back, write page 6 to the left, turn the page back, write page 7 on the right, turn the page back, write page 8 to the left, turn a few pages and start next four pairs of facing pages by writing p. 9 to the right. And so on.

    Copy these as pairs.

    If notebook has an opened size greater than a lying A4, diminish, and glue the pages to A4s folded on the middle in a symmetric way.

    Use then these copies or glued copies like this: 8 - 1 head to head with 4 - 5, 2 - 7 head to head with 6 - 3. 16 - 09 head to head with 12 - 13, 10 - 15 head to head with 14 - 11, and so on.

    Usually two A4 lying "beside each other" (physically) or "head to head" (as pages go in writing) on the A3 screen of a copy-machine. Diminish to A4. You now have reproducible originals.

  • B) For blog posts:

    Successive posts are copied and pasted onto a word document. It should then be blued all over (select all) and points of font size be put twice as large as you want the final book. If you want book in 12 points, the font size on word should be 24.

    Not just font size, but also font, paragraphing and hyphenisation at end of lines can be refined at this stage.

    Instead of making one word document for all of the book, you can make more than one word document.

    Next stage is numbering the pages.

    After that, the pages are divided into lots of 8. These are then subdivided like this:

    8 - 1 : 16 - 09 : 24 - 17 : 32 - 25 : 40 - 33
    2 - 7 : 10 - 15 : 18 - 23 : 26 - 31 : 34 - 39
    6 - 3 : 14 - 11 : 22 - 19 : 30 - 27 : 38 - 35
    4 - 5 : 12 - 13 : 20 - 21 : 28 - 29 : 36 - 37

    48 - 41 : etc : 88 - 81
    42 - 47 : etc : 82 - 87
    46 - 43 : etc : 86 - 83
    44 - 45 : etc : 84 - 85 : etc

    Two and two these A4 pages are set side by side on A3 screen of copy-machine and reduced to a single A4.

    Then these A4's with two pages are further reduced: 8 - 1 head to head with 4 - 5, 2 - 7 head to head with 6 - 3. 16 - 09 head to head with 12 - 13, 10 - 15 head to head with 14 - 11, and so on.

    Usually two A4 lying "beside each other" (physically) or "head to head" (as pages go in writing) on the A3 screen of a copy-machine. Diminish to A4. You now have reproducible originals.

  • C) If you missed a preface, a title page, a few pages about how you have the copyright (unique or shared), well, add an extra 8 pages:

    uiij - [i=] Title page
    [ij=empty] - uij
    uj - iij
    iu - u

    This is inserted before the other ones. Treated exactly like above, should yield two single faced originals with uiij - [i=] Title page head on head with iu - u and [ij=empty] - uij head on head with uj - iij.

  • D) Speaking of copy-right!

    If you take the posts from a blog, it should be one of following:

    • a) your own;

    • b) someone else's who gave you a personal permission to print it as books;

    • c) someone else's who gave a general licence (if excluding certain categories, make sure you are not on an excluded list) to do so;

    and if the personal permission or general licence marks "non-commercial use only", you cannot sell the books.

    My own general licence has no exceptions, and it is not marked "non-commercial use only", so you can sell books if taking it from my blog posts (insofar as these are entirely my own, for posts with shared copyright, there is another owner to consult as well*). In return I hope some of those who do so will be sending me money for it.

Hans Georg Lundahl
Nanterre UL
Decapitation of St John the Baptist

* I'll here link both to my licence and to the exception clause for posts with shared copyright:

hglwrites : A little note on further use conditions

Antimodernism : Copyright issues on blogposts with shared copyright